Shinjuku — Tokyo's neon heart

Shinjuku is the Tokyo people imagine before they arrive — and somehow, when they get here, it's even louder. This guide is the route I walk when friends visit for the first time.

What to see in Shinjuku

1. Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (東京都庁)

Free entry to the 45th-floor observation deck. On a clear winter morning you can see Mount Fuji (富士山) from here. Go at sunset for the city's best free skyline view.

2. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden (新宿御苑)

Three garden styles — Japanese, French formal, and English landscape — inside a single former imperial estate. The cherry blossom (桜) season here in late March is one of the best in Tokyo.

3. Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁)

"Memory Lane" — a tight cluster of yakitori counters behind the station's west exit. Order the chicken skewers, motsuni (offal stew) and a Sapporo. It's smoky, cramped, and unforgettable.

4. Kabukicho (歌舞伎町)

Tokyo's neon entertainment district. Walk the main drag at night for the photogenic Godzilla head, izakaya, and game centers. Stay alert with touts — politely ignore them.

5. Golden Gai (新宿ゴールデン街)

Six narrow alleys, more than 200 micro-bars, each seating around six people. Some welcome tourists, some don't — look for English signs, or follow my YouTube walk for the friendlier spots.

Where to eat in Shinjuku

Shinjuku is a food city pretending to be a business district. A few categories to anchor your plan:

• Ramen (ラーメン): Fuunji for tsukemen, Ichiran for solo first-timers, Menya Musashi for thick broth fans.
• Tonkatsu (とんかつ): Tonki and Suzuya — old-school crispy pork cutlets with rice and miso.
• Izakaya: Anywhere in Omoide Yokocho or Golden Gai — order pointing at what looks good.
• Late-night: 24-hour gyudon chains (Yoshinoya, Sukiya) save you at 3 a.m.

For a complete breakdown, see the Tokyo Food Guide.

How to get to Shinjuku

Almost every line in Tokyo passes through. From Tokyo Station, take the JR Chuo Line (about 14 minutes). From Narita Airport, the Narita Express (N'EX) runs direct in around 80 minutes.

Best time to visit

Shinjuku is good year-round, but evening is when it shines. Arrive at the Metropolitan Building before sunset, watch the city light up, then walk down to Omoide Yokocho for dinner — that's the Shinjuku I'd take you on.